After being home over a week (this time last week I was dragging my tired self to bed and enjoying (:S) the extreme Queensland heat!) I thought I ought to post something in summary. Tidy up and finish off so to speak.
Now that all my purchases are safely ensconced in their new homes (or at least stored! I've got to stop buying pictures to hang in a house that I don't have!) all the washing is done, and I'm recovered from jet lag (I think!) and the cold that I brought back with me is finally starting to disappear. I think I'm ready to write some kind of summary.
My favourite things from this holiday are:
- Once
- The Heiress and meeting Dan Stevens, but more so Jessica Chastain
- Kennedy Space Centre and the Launch Pad Tour
- Exploring New Orleans
- Butterbeer and Harry Potter World at Universal Studios.
- Dead Accounts (and boo to the people that said it wasn't good and forced it to close early!)
- Evita and the Rockettes
- Spending time with my parents
- Catching up with Pat and Hester and meeting Fen and Kai.
I'm so glad that I kept a blog. I'm already starting to forget details and it's so great to be able to comeback and check on things.
I don't think I'm done with the US yet, I think New York will always be on my list of places to go, but I don't think I'd go at Christmas/New Years again. I just can't cope with the crowds!
This won't be the end of me blogging. I think I might need to change the title, but I've got an adventure or two planned for this year and I wouldn't want my friends to miss out. Make sure if you've been reading that you let me know, especially if you're not someone I know!
This morning was a very early start. Bed around 12am, and then up at 4.30am for a shuttle to the airport.
It was all quite painless, and the flight was quite comfortable.
Landing in Hawaii to gorgeous weather and heaps of people (lots of Aussies funnily enough). I got to my hotel around 4pm, to find myself in a huge room complete with 3 beds. Not sure what I'm supposed to do with them all though.
The view from my room.
I'd picked a hotel I'd stayed at before because it's in a great spot, just behind the International Marketplace and a short walk to Waikiki. As soon as I'd dropped off my stuff, it was out of long pants, into shorts and thongs and off to the beach.
I walked for a way, away from the public beach area and chose a path down between some hotels, walking back along the shore toward Duke's bar. This was a walk that Melissa and I did a few years ago when we were in Honolulu. It was lovely to feel the sun out at 5pm, and have the waves splashing on my feet.
As the sun started to set I headed up through Duke's (where I was unsuccessful obtaining service) and so went back to the hotel to clean up to go and get dinner. I took a different route, and found myself some nail polish in a curious shop that seemed to only be serving Japanese tourists, all prices were in Japanese! But they had a good selection, and ultimately I discovered, good prices.
For dinner I wanted to go to the Cheesecake Factory. I wandered in and asked one of the girls at the counter about a table to be advised that there was a 40-60 minute wait. I shook my head at that and she suggested I get a seat at the bar and order there. So I did just that. 5 minutes later I had a drink in my hand and was contemplating the very extensive menu!
I ended up ordering Moroccan Chicken with pearl couscous (I want to get some of this) flavoured with golden raisins, almonds, asparagus and oven roasted tomatoes, served with spiced Harissa. It was very good!
On the way out I stopped to pick up a piece of cheese cake, and by this stage it was a 15 minute wait to speak to the girl at the counter about a table, and a further 1.5 hour wait for a table. MADNESS! Anyway, I chose a piece of Chocolate and raspberry cheesecake and was on my way, back through the International Marketplace to my hotel room. I think this is the way to fly home from the US, a comfortable bed for the night between flights. Very civilised!
I had my last day in New York all planned out, with only 2 things that I really wanted to accomplish; a trip to visit Mt Vernon and a visit to Dylan's Candy Store. Thankfully they are quite close together so this was an easy thing to do.
Firstly though I thought a little shopping at Macy's was in order. Because my hotel was quite close (only 2 blocks across from the store) I took this to be a sign from above that shopping was a good idea. So shopping I went, some shirts, a new pair of slippers (that I won't be able to wear for at least 6 months!) and a few other bits and pieces.
After that I trekked back to the hotel to drop it off, and then I was off uptown to visit Mt Vernon.
I caught the 'E' train to 53rd and Lexington and then walked uptown to 61st Street, and then down toward the river. While it may not sound like far (less than 10 short blocks) it actually is further than you might think, add to that biting cold wind and a person sniffling and trying to blow their nose with gloves on, well it's not a pretty picture.
I'd read about Mt Vernon on a blog somewhere. It's another of the grand old houses of New York. It was originally built as part of the estate of Abigial Adams (daughter of a president) and her husband, it was originally a carriage house built in 1799 and part of a huge estate. It was sold, and became a 'Day Hotel' for New Yorkers who wanted to experience the country. They would drive up to Mt Vernon, have drinks, go sailing or visit a nearby race track. Escaping the hustle and bustle of the city.
The tour costs $8, and you aren't allowed to take photos inside the house so I only have some snaps from the garden. It was bustling with school children (good to see them getting interested in history, and quite well behaved too!) but this meant that I think I ended up with the tale end of the docents. She really didn't seem to know much about the specifics or details of the house, and I found the tour quite boring.
On leaving the house I headed back down town to visit Dylan's Candy Store. Mum and Dad visited this place the last time they were in NYC (a few years ago). Not 2 days before I'd seen it featured on Gossip Girl. Being the inveterate Gummi Bear lover that I am I had to visit, and they sell my new favourite candy, Chocolate coated Gummi Bears! So yummy.
I then wandered over and through Bloomingdales. Of all the department stores in Manhattan this is the only one I've never visited. It's probably because it's off the beaten track, a few blocks over from the main strip.
By this stage I was getting a little bit peckish, and I had a craving for a New York slice. As I headed down town (and across to Fifth Avenue) I came across a bustling Pizzeria so stopped in to have some lunch. Nothing compares to a slice of New York Pizza.
After this I wandered for a few hours, picking up souvenirs and presents and generally enjoying the city. One of the problems was the sun, surprisingly walking down the Avenues in the afternoon is difficult because of the angle of the sun. I walked past a shop I was looking for, and had to go back and find it again later that night.
I did end up back at the hotel to drop off my purchases, and have a rest and get warm.
Then it was time to head out again. For dinner I had chosen 'Five Guys' burgers and fries. We'd seen it on an episode of some kind of food show Mum and Dad had been watching, and apparently they have the best fries in the US. A little more expensive than your usual fast food outlet but the burger was very good and the fries were equally crispy and yummy. They also had a cool soda fountain that provided an almost limitless supply of Coca-Cola products. I chose to have Vanilla Coke, but could have had Vanilla Cherry if I'd so desired (didn't know it existed!!).
After this it was time to head to the theatre to see Tony winner 'Once'. Most theatres open their doors around 7.30pm for an 8pm show. Unlike our theatres at home they have almost no foyer space (perhaps a metre if lucky). I arrived early intending to go to the toilet (prior to the rush) and get to my seat before the ushers got to the 'rude' part of their evening. I was therefore a little surprised to find that when I showed up at 7.30pm there was a queue of people waiting to get into the theatre! It was moving quickly so I happily waited and got inside out of the cold.
Upon entering I encountered a very cool set up. The stage for Once is a giant semicircle on the stage with a bar at the back, and 2 double doors that serve as entry points. The walls of the bar are covered in mirrors, but not new polished shiny mirrors, rather they are old mirrors with bits that have faded. In addition the walls behind the mirrors are also mirrored. Scattered along the walls are candle type lights. At roof height the staging stops and the rest of the theatre has been stripped out so that you can see the bricks that make up the rectangle of the back of the stage.
The bar, at the start of the show (and at interval) actually operates as a bar. With the audience going up on stage to purchase drinks! It was like Rock of Ages only better. A few stage hands on the sides monitor the numbers on the stage and at times there was a queue to gain access.
At about 7.45pm so people with musical instruments emerged and began to play. A couple of violinists, a cellist, lots of different versions of guitars (ukulele, banjo etc), a pianist. They stood in the middle and had their own jam session. At one point, one of the ladies with a violin was playing so furiously that I was watching the strings on her bow break.
Finally the crowd on the stage cleared, the lights went down, and the show started. These were not just musicians on the stage, but rather, the cast of the show.
Once is a musical for a musician. The people on the stage are their own orchestra, there is no pit, no backing tracks, they are it. It is the set in Dublin, and is the story of a girl and a guy (and that's what they are called in the program, we are never given their names). Guy is a musician, who's girlfriend has moved to New York and who has given up on life, instead working in his father's Hoover shop. Girl is also a musician (a pianist), from Czechoslovakia, who is married with a little girl, but the father of her little girl has gone back home. She comes to the guy to have her Hoover fixed, and in the process reinvigorates his life. Encouraging him to embrace his talent, record his songs and start living his life again.
Essentially the songs that make up the show are guys, although at times girl adds lyrics. And they are beautiful. My favourite is 'Falling Slowly'.
While the set is essentially a bar, it also becomes the Hoover shop, a bank, guy's bedroom all using the audiences imagination. Mostly too, the actors (and the cast is quite large) sits on the stage, and add the voices of their own instruments, and their voices to the music.
One of the most amazing set transformations (without very much change) was when girl and guy escape the recording studio and go to look at Dublin from the cliffs over the sea. They leave the 'bar' area through one of the doors, and emerge standing on the top of the wall. The bar area goes black and little fairy lights appear to show Dublin. It was beautiful. More beautiful because guy asks girl some questions, how to say things in Czech (all translations appear below from a projector ... they also use this to translate into czech when they should be speaking in czech but aren't.) You can see that they are falling for each other, but she informs him that her husband is coming back, he asks her in czech if she still loves him, (after asking her how) to which she responds, in Czech 'I love you'. It was at this point I started to cry.
Guy records his music, and at the encouraging of girl, goes off to New York to meet up with the ex-girlfriend who has been missing him. At which point they sing the last song 'Falling Slowly'.
I have never seen an audience provide a standing ovation so quickly or completely. Everyone just stood. I don't know how many others were like me and having an cry, but all I could think of, was how they would never get to make this beautiful music again. The hopeless romantic in me believes all love stories should end well.
It's not all tears though, the show is very funny, most of the best lines provided by girl, who just has a manner about her. It's gorgeous.
The show was AMAZING. I don't know if they could ever stage it in Australia. The quality of musicians and actors required is complex. Girl needs to play the piano, maintain a Czech accent, speak Czech and sing and act and that's just one example.
For an example of the show go to youtube, and check out the song the cast presented at the Tony Awards, you'll see a guy dance while playing a cello!
If you're in New York, go and see it!
Finally I think the reason I've loved both the shows I went to see is because they made me believe the story was real. I see a lot of theatre, and I've kind of become numb. What I'm seeing is a story, it'll end in 2 hours and I go home. No point caring. But both the Heiress, and Once I CARED. I became emotionally involved in the story, I felt the anguish of the characters, I wanted to help them, and when they were hurt I hurt too. This is what great theatre does, it drags you in to the story, so you forget that they are actors on the stage, so you become part of the emotional journey of the story. Ultimately it means that when you leave you take the story with you, part of your own life story.
Well it's after midnight and I'm doing a blog entry, and a very exciting day it's been.
I didn't get much sleep last night because it seemed as if New Orleans was going to float away. It poured most of the night, plus there was plenty of thunder. In fact I was woken up by thunder shaking the doors of my room ... at least that's what I think it was!
The hardest part of the day was the start. You see, after lugging all our suitcases up to the attic a few days ago they had to come back down, who would have thought! So prior to breakfast 3 suitcases, 2 bags, 1 carryon, and 2 backpacks had to be lugged down 2 flights of narrow stairs.
Breakfast was delicious, fruit salad, followed by scrambled eggs, sausage and english muffins.
At the airport Mum, Dad and I had managed to book ourselves on the same airline, so it was a simple matter of getting to the terminal, checking bags (all under weight ... phew!), through security and to the gate.
I was first to leave at 12.20pm so we said our goodbyes at the gate and Mum and Dad are safely on their way back to Australia. The plane I was on was TINY, so tiny in fact that they had to take my carryon bag and stow it under the plane as it was too big for the luggage compartments. On the upside I had a seat two seats all to myself! Surprisingly I got snack service and free drinks on the flight too.
Landing at JFK was interesting. I think we arrived at the 3rd world terminal part of JFK. Not jetway, in fact steps that the ejected themselves from the plane. Then we had to walk down a very breezy walk way to the terminal. I'd elected to catch the subway into the city, and was pleasantly surprised by how quick and easy it was (aside from the part where I nearly got stuck in the subway turnstile 'cause I didn't think about whether or not my bags would fit).
My hotel was a short walk from the 34th Street Station, and check in was quick and easy. I arrived around 5.30pm and was out of the room by 6pm.
I wandered up 8th Ave with two goals in mind 1) get to the theatre for the Heiress on time, and pick up tickets; and 2) go to the theatre for "Once" and buy tickets for tomorrow night.
Along the way I found a Dean and Deluca, and 'cause I was feeling kind of hungry (no lunch will do that to you!) I went in and got some sushi for dinner.
A little further along I saw a big sign advertising 'Cake Boss Bakery' so I went in, and yes, it was an outpost of Buddy's bakery Carlo's. So I got myself a Lobster Tail to nibble on.
With my hunger satisfied I managed to make it to the theatre where "Once" is on, and get tickets for tomorrow night. Job one accomplished. In the same block is the theatre where a few weeks ago Mum and I saw Katie Holmes in Dead Accounts. Turns out it was a good thing I didn't wait to see it when I came back ... it's closed and the theatre was in darkness.
Another 3 blocks down I found the theatre for 'The Heiress'. Picked up the tickets and then went for a wander in Times Square, visiting the Disney store and generally browsing.
Around 7.45pm back to the theatre to find my seats. A great position in the middle of the orchestra section. The theatre is gorgeous, with the most sumptuous red velvet curtains I've ever seen. The reason I chose to see this show was partly because it's based on the story behind the "Merchant's House Museum" that I visited when I was in New York a few weeks ago, and also partly because Dan Stevens' of Downton Abbey Fame is in it.
The play was AMAZING. The story centres on Catherine Sloper (Jessica Chastain), the somewhat socially awkward daughter of a rich doctor. Her cousin brings a friend around, Morris Townsend (Dan Stevens) and he woos Catherine, when he's really just after her inheritance. He convinces her to elope with him, but she has a huge fight with her father and he threatens to disinherit her ... and Morris never turns up to take her (knowing that she isn't coming with her inheritance). The upshot of the story is that 2 years later (after Catherine's Dad has died and she's in full control of her fortune) Morris turns up again. Catherine tells him to come back and that they'll run away again, then leaves him standing outside knocking desperately.
Jessica Chastain was absolutely amazing as Catherine, she was awkward and shy you could feel her anguish and desire to be loved. Dan Stevens was equally amazing as Morris, I was in love with him despite knowing his mercenary desires!
Also amazing was the set, the front room of a 19th Century New York Town House. I wish I had been able to take some photos of it. The costumes, particularly of the ladies were breathtaking, and thankfully they actually changed them, rather than just using the same dresses over and over.
At the end of the play I high tailed it outside to get autographs, and ended up standing with a Mother and Daughter from Sydney who were stage door hopping. We had a wonderful chat and they were kind enough to take my photo with both Dan Stevens and Jessica Chastain. Yep that's right I met and got photos with both. They were so friendly, I even spoke to Jessica about the Merchant's House Museum and she talked about her favourite parts from her visit. I didn't realise but she's got a pretty big movie out, sitting in bed I saw the add for it 'Zero Dark 30'. I'm definitely going to go and see it!
Now I've got to go to bed, because it's now 1.06am!
Today was our final day in New Orleans and we'd done all the 'big' items on our to-do list. Therefore we had a slowish morning (with another delicious breakfast from Cindy) before heading out.
Dad wanted to visit a couple of churches, so we rugged up and headed out. The weather was not too crash hot. It was cloudy, but not raining (yet). By the time we got downtown a few of the buildings were missing their tops in the fog that was gathering.
Our first stop was the Mortuary Chapel for St Louis #1 cemetery. Officially called Our Lady of Guadalupe. It is the oldest standing church in New Orleans, being built in 1826. We'd been told it featured a Shrine to St Jude. The Church was quite busy with lots of people outside, and quite a few inside enjoying the warmth, sleeping on pews, or sitting and watching the passing parade. I think the prettiest part were the multi-coloured candles in the side chapels.
We also visited the Marian Grotto outside.
After that we wandered down toward the River into the French Quarter proper. Taking time to pop into shops we saw along the way. (This part of the French Quarter is filled with amazing antique stores).
The next stop was the St Louis Cathedral, in front of Jackson Square. I love it when you walk into a church and you feel God's presence. As soon as you opened the door to the church proper you could hear the organ playing and smell the incense being burned. The inside was beautiful, decorated with amazing stained glass windows, statues for the stations of the cross, a gorgeous nativity and ceiling paintings too! The Cathedral was smaller than St John's (our home Cathedral in Brisbane) but more in the style of the church we've seen in Alexandria. This means a balcony up above with columns.
Madonna and Child above the Nativity Scene.
The main part of the Cathedral.
While we were in Jackson Square we had a look at the Cabildo (where the Louisiana Purchase was signed).
The Cabildo (seat of Government in French New Orleans).
Before passing in front of St Louis to visit what was one the Presbytere and is now part of the Louisiana State Museum. The Museum had two very interesting exhibits. One focusing on Hurricane Katrina (but also looking at previous Hurricanes) and the other on Mardi Gras. Both were very interesting, and we spent an hour and a half wandering around reading the information. Cost of entry was $20. I learned:
- that most of the flooding from Katrina came from the Lake's surrounding New Orleans, not from the River. Most of this flooding was due to the loss of swamps that had previously been part of the lakes.
- That the Superdome initially was an evacuation point for 10 000 -12 000 people with a complement of 270 National Guards. This population swelled to 35 000 in the days following the Hurricane.
- Most of the original areas that were settled (the French Quarter) did not flood. This is because they had been built on the high land, where local Indians had told people to settle.
A Katrina garage door, with notations by rescuers informing what was found. In another place they explained what all the codes in the different sectors of the cross meant (1 part is for the crew that have done the inspection, another tells if it's safe, another part the date, and finally a section describing what was found).
A teddy rescued from the flood waters.
From the Mardi Gras section we learned about the parades, balls, kings and queens. Seeing some examples of the costumes worn, the kinds of souvenirs provided and the progression in the parades and balls over the years. It was all very interesting.
Zulu costume from the Mardi Gras parade.
Jewellery worn by Queens and Kings of Mardi Gras.
Costumes worn by Kings and Queens at Mardi Gras balls.
As we were very close we wandered down to Cafe Du Monde for lunch, enjoying Beignets, Cafe Au Lait and hot chocolate. All the while we were serenaded by a trombonist. 'Hello Dolly!'
After we finished we went for a wander up and down Chatres and Royal Streets. Visiting Antique stores, Art Galleries and Jewellery stores. Some of these stores were better than museums!
Mum and Dad bought a painting (which will come home on it's own, so no packing!), Mum bought a necklace, and I got to look at some real 'pieces of eight' which were for sale in an Antique store.
After a while Mum left Dad and I to our looking, and we headed for home as the rain started to fall.
It was then time for packing! Thankfully we've managed to get everything in, and we're still under weight. Depending on how my days in NYC go I may be purchasing another suitcase ... maybe.
Dad and I took the car out at 6.30pm to fill it up with petrol in readiness to return it tomorrow. We also got some chicken at the gas station for dinner (it was recommended on Trip Advisor.) While there, Dad got to talking to an African American Gentleman, and the next thing, I looked up and the man said to Dad 'Put it there, brother' and stuck his fist out. Dad scored his very first fist pound. It was the coolest thing that I've ever seen! Turns out the guy was a trumpet player who'd played on a stage over Sydney Harbour and had fond memories of Sydney.
We headed home and I was glad to get out of the weather, the fog is rolling in, visibility is bad and the rain is coming down! A good last day.
We could not have asked for a more perfect day for being out and about in the Cemetery today! Perfect sunny weather in the morning, although it was a little cool and the wind was blowing.
The morning start off with a lovely breakfast at our B&B, we had a fruit cocktail (with pineapple that was so yellow it was almost orange) as well as a quiche with ham and collard greens.
Our tour today was one I was quite excited about. You see I'm a bit of a 'Taphophile' or a cemetery enthusiast. Don't get me wrong, I'm not macabre, I rather enjoy the history that the tours often provide. Where else can you find out a whole lot of information about people who shaped our past!
It was then time to head off to our tour. I was quite worried about the tour. I'd read some recent reviews online about the St Louis Cemetery #1 that suggested not to go there on your own, be careful walking there, and that the tour would be accompanied by an armed guard. Alarming to say the least! We had to meet our guide at the Basin Street Station. Expecting a normal train station I didn't want to be there too far ahead of time (this is a bad area said all the reviews). I was pleasantly surprised therefore to see a modern building, and to go in to be greeted by lots of friendly people. The sole purpose of the building is an information centre. We were able to wait in the warmth, with a toilet, for our guide to arrive.
The tour I'd chosen is with a group called 'Save our Cemeteries'. They run one (sometimes two) tours a day at 10am and all the money from the tours is put back into the cemetery in restoration and preservation. The tour cost $20, but we got a discount with a little brochure given to us by the land lady at our B&B, a whole $2 off!
The St Louis Cemetery #1 is the oldest cemetery in New Orleans. Prior to this, burials were performed in what is now the levee, but when the river flooded bodies started to float away! The cemetery has been made smaller over time (as roads have been put through it) and is a hodge podge of graves, that don't follow the usual rows that we see in planned cemeteries.
There are two types of burials. Wall crypts, and what I'll call Mausoleums. The Wall Crypts are found on the edge of the cemetery and are a 'cheaper' option. One we looked at had 15 burials, all in the space of one coffin. What happens is that the front plate (marble) is removed from the spot, then the soft brick backing is pulled out. The coffin would then be put into the empty space, the bricks put back in, and the marble slab placed back on (engraved with the name of the deceased). The next time someone died (usually more than 2 years later) the process would be repeated, except that the coffin would be removed and the remains would have been slowly cremated by the heat inside the wall (they are 3 high and about 4 metres deep). The remains would then be pushed to the back of the space (or more recently put in a bag and put back there), so of the wall tombs had an area at the back where the remains would drop down the guide called the a caveaux (although I can't find the correct spelling or a verification of this!).
An example of a wall vault. Still in use!
Most of the rest of the burials are in freestanding vaults. Some are for families, and others are for 'societies' (The Portuguese society has there own for example). Many of the tombs are crumbling, and the marble is easily eaten by the harsh weather conditions ... or else it falls off the front of the crypts.
In terms of the tour, our guide was very, very long winded. 40 minutes into the tour we had gone maybe 5 metres into the cemetery and I was getting frustrated. But things picked up after that. A good note was that the tour was about history, and not about Voodoo offerings (which some of the tours encourage) although he did explain some Voodoo customs. The reason for the explanation of Voodoo was because one of the most famous burials in St Louis #1 is that of Marie Laveau the so called 'Voodoo Priestess of New Orleans'. I've read accounts of how this grave is haunted, how snakes come from it and how people leave offerings. On our visit I saw no ghosts or snakes (thank goodness!) but I did see lots of offerings. People have desecrated the grave by writing all over it (including on the headstone that can't be cleaned!) and they also leave interesting offerings, alcohol, lip balm, hotel cards and keys, half burned cigarettes and lots of Madi Gras beads.
In addition we visited graves of Homer Plessy (one of the first people to challenge the 'separate but equal' principal) a number of governors of New Orleans, and some Protestant graves (in a separate part of the cemetery walled out from the Catholics). See the cemetery was segregated, not along race lines (lots of black and white catholics buried together) but rather along religious beliefs.
Tomb in the Protestant Section. The fence behind is being rebuilt. These people (who own the tomb) bought the land surrounding their crypt so no one has been buried around them.
The cemetery is still in use, and we visited the grave that Nicholas Cage has created for himself. An interesting looking pyramid that the guide claimed was very unique ... although I've seen a few pyramids in cemeteries.
While we wandered around I didn't see any dodgy characters and I walked away from the tour on my own on a number of occasions! Lots of other tour groups there (we almost had to line up to see Marie Laveau's tomb.) and there were lots of parents wandering around with prams and kids. The cemetery is confusing as it follows no set layout, but you can always see the walls that mark the edges of cemetery.
Once we finished the tour we headed down N. Rampart Street to Canal Street. Here we got a close up view of the houses that apparently serve as look out points for the muggers who prey on tourists at St Louis #1. They are certainly scary looking places and I was careful to keep moving and have my eyes down. From Canal we got a bus down St Charles Street, hopping off at Washington Ave. This was supposed to be a Street Car ... but apparently the tracks are being ripped up for some reason. Dad was quite disappointed with this.
We walked down Washington Avenue toward the river. I was surprised to come across Lafayette Cemetery #1. We headed in, and had a look around, no tour this time! Just our usual practice of wandering and reading. Again there were plenty of tourists around and we felt very safe, possibly because the Garden District is a very upmarket area! The burials were an interesting mix of above ground and in ground and the cemetery is in much better shape than St Louis #1.
From there we walked down a few of the streets, taking in the architecture of the Garden District. The houses here are much larger and grander (Sandra Bullock owns one) than those in the French Quarter, and we enjoyed spotting and oohing and ahhing over the sheer size of some of them.
Side one of the house.
And the rest of it!
My favourite.
From there we caught another bus back into down St Charles to Canal Street. Hopping off to walk down Royal Street so I could look in a store I found on our first day. It's on our list for tomorrow, as it was closed!
Next stop was Johnny's Po Boys for lunch. Po Boys are another New Orleans specialty, the only trouble was deciding what to order. Mum had a Turkey one, Dad had Roast Beef and I had a Cheese Burger version. The Po Boy is a long bread role (a very thick sub might be the best description). Usually they are stuffed with breaded oysters, or shrimp, but we've all had enough seafood at the moment. We all ordered ours 'dressed' which mean that I got 16 oz of meat, cheese and the the 'dressing' lettuce, mayonnaise, tomato and pickles. We walked down to the Moonwalk along the Mississippi to eat them. I think mine was this nicest cheese burger I've ever eaten! Although I only got through half of it, bringing the rest home for dinner.
The reason we were particularly on the Moon Walk was to catch the River Street car, so Dad finally got a ride on one. The plan was to catch it all the way to the end of the track in both directions. But by the time one arrived we didn't care where it was going (it was going the wrong way!) and we got on anyway, taking it back to the spot we wanted to finish. It made a quick trip, but at the turn around at French Market an old fellow got on. He had his daughter with him, and she told him he had to get off. Somehow he'd managed to cut his leg on the step getting into the car, he had blood all over his hand, and he walked down the street car to our end (they are two ended) to explain to the driver what had happened, he then got off with his daughter to go and get cleaned up. I was surprised because at that point the driver asked us for 'napkins' (I gave him some of my serviettes from my lunch) and proceeded to whinge about how the old guy had got blood everywhere. No incident reports to fill out, no discussion with the daughter about how the accident happened ... isn't this 'America' the land of the civil suit? I though the American's were the reason we had all this kind of stuff to fill out, and they don't even do it! Anyway, the driver then wandered down the street car and found what must have been a pool of blood where the old guy had cut himself. More whinging and moaning followed before he fired up the cart and headed back along the line. He didn't stop at any stops either. We finally got off at Canal Street, caught another bus up Canal, off at North Rampart and then we walked back to our accommodation.
All in all we've covered a lot of ground today, below is a map to show how far we went.
Last night when I signed off, I wrote about my excitement at the tour of St Louis Cemetery Number 1. Well this morning mother nature got in the way! When we woke up it was pouring with rain, and very miserable. In addition I woke up with an ear ache. It seems that while Dad is getting over his cold, mine has turned from a sore throat into a full blown cold. So the cold and flu tablets and I are very good friends!
Breakfast at Monrose Row was French Toast, made from fruit toast and covered almonds. It was very yummy.
Cindy, our host, agreed that today would be a good day to head out to the plantations, so we headed out along the Baton Rouge road with two in mind. First though, we had to cross the swamps (I was disappointed that the only 'alligator' I saw turned out to be a tyre) and then the mighty Mississippi (on the giant bridge). Finally we arrived a Laura Plantation.
On the bridge crossing the Mississippi.
Looking back at the bridge.
Laura (more correctly called the Duparc Plantation) was originally built in 1805. It was constructed by a slave hired specifically for the purpose (coming from Senegal). The owners of the plantation were 'Creole'. The first owner Guilliame Duparc came from France, and was at one time the Governor of Louisiana ... when it was a French territory! He died 4 years after purchasing the plantation. Duparc's wife took over the running of the plantation, becoming the 'President'. She then retired and handed the Presidency over to her daughter Elizabeth. Being French, inheritance was based on ability, rather than age and women had equal property rights with men. Eventually the plantation came to be owned by Laura (grand-daughter of Elizabeth) who sold the plantation to a German family.
The house is amazing, and the history and research that the guides relate is very interesting. I learned that Creoles considered their plantations their 'business headquarters'. They lived in them during the sugar can season. Around the start of January they would go up to New Orleans and live in their town houses (in the French Quarter) up until around April. This meant they could enjoy the season of Mardi Gras. Business was conducted in the bedrooms in the house. The 'Anglo' men (American natives, northerners, English puritans etc) who came to do business with the ladies at Laura were offended not only to have to do business with women, but also that they had to do business in the ladies bedroom ... with the bed looming large!
The afore mentioned bedroom.
The plantation farmed sugar, and was mainly run by slave labour. The fact that women ran the plantation didn't mean that they were nice to the slaves. Elizabeth had slaves branded, and sold mothers away from the sons. Her mother brought a whole lot of female slaves back and had them 'bred' so that she could start to sell her own slaves. An interesting fact I learned was relating to the value of slaves. In todays money a male aged around 25 (the best kind of slave to buy) was worth $25 000. Some slaves were valued up to $100 000. As slaves got older their value decreased, and they were also paid (this helped to provide an incentive to harvest the sugar cane) and therefore as they got older they could purchase their freedom. The owners of the plantations liked this because they could then use the money to buy new slaves.
We got to tour one of the slave cottages on the plantation. These were inhabited up until 1970 when the German family that purchased the plantation from Laura asked them to leave while they were preparing the plantation for sale. The cottages house 2 families in 2 rooms. Slaves would work from sun up till 11am. Then rest through the hottest part of the day before commencing work again at 3pm and working until sun down. Breakfast and lunch were provided by the kitchens at the plantation, but dinner was the responsibility of individuals. Of note is that the stories of Braer Rabbit were taken on this plantation ... and Fats Dominos parents and family also came from here.
Inside the cabins
From the outside.
We toured the plantation with a group of around 8, and a very knowledgable guide. Cost of entry was $20. I ended up purchasing Laura's Memoirs and they are providing interesting reading!
Only a mile or two up the road is Oak Alley. This plantation is what I think of when I think of a plantation ... and you've probably seen it before, as it has featured in 'Interview with a Vampire', Beyonce videos and 'Days of our Lives'.
The house from the front, standing in the Oak Alley.
Oak Alley was built between 1837-1839 and was built behind a Alley of Oaks (leading to the Mississippi River) that had already been built, probably some time in the late 1700s. It was built by the Roman family, who were also French, in the traditional Greek Revival Style. Tours here also cost $20, but unlike at Laura we were taken through by a bored sounding, historical dressed guide. The tour group was huge and it was quite difficult to get around and look. Add to that people asking stupid questions (that had already been answered) or repeating information back to the guide, and her attitude didn't improve much. I didn't really learn anything new on the tour ... and all slaves were referred to as 'servants'.
Looking down the Alley toward the levee (holding back the Mississippi).
We returned from Oak Alley to the city, passed the Superdome which from this picture is not done justice.
After pausing to drop off purchases, and properly empty the car we headed into the French Quarter to find some Muffuletta sandwiches. The place we wanted to go to 'Central Grocery' was closed so we were hustled into the store next door instead. A Muffuletta is a combination of meats (ham and pastrami) with an olive style tapanade. It's a New Orleans specialty. I was still recovering from yesterdays food, and so had spaghetti and meat balls (I hate olives!).
Once we'd finished lunch we took a walk up the levee and had a look at the Mississippi. It's huge, and about the same colour as the Brisbane River.
View from the levee across the river.
Looking back across toward Decatur, street cars!
We then paused at Cafe Du Monde for take out chocolate, coffee and Beignets and then went for a wander down through the stores of the French Quarter. I needed to buy some more cold and flu tablets so we located a CVS pharmacy. I couldn't believe that before I could get to the medication I had to walk past rows of alcoholic beverages for sale, including fridges full of them. Taking things a little too far I think! We ended up walking up to the Louis Armstrong Park. I'd consulted a map, and saw we could walk into the middle and then out and through. Mum stopped to ask a fellow walking his dog about where we make the turn and was advised we head back the way we came as 'That neighbourhood is not safe at night'. So we walked back down North Rampart to our accommodation instead.
Tomorrow's plan is for the Cemetery tour ... and then a trip on the cable car down into the Garden District.
